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Alishan was easily one of the most magical places we visited in Taiwan. Mist drifts through enormous cypress trees, little red trains disappear into the forest and the entire area feels like it belongs somewhere much farther from Taiwan’s busy cities than it actually is.
We spent one night in Alishan, which was enough time to walk through Sister Ponds and the Giant Tree forest, explore the temple area and wake up the following morning for Alishan’s famous sunrise before continuing on to Sun Moon Lake.
You could easily spend longer here if you’re interested in hiking, but I don’t think you need to tackle every trail or understand every branch of the Alishan Forest Railway to have a great trip. This Alishan Guide focuses on the things I think are actually important for a first visit: what to see, how the sunrise train works, where to stay, where to eat and how to get there without making the logistics more complicated than they need to be.
Table of Contents
Alishan At a Glance
Best for: Sunrise, misty forests, mountain views, easy hiking and the historic forest railway
How long to stay: 1–2 nights
Where to stay: Inside Alishan National Forest Recreation Area for the easiest access to the trails and sunrise train
Top things to do: Zhushan sunrise, Sister Ponds, Giant Trees Trail, Ogasawara Viewpoint and the Alishan Forest Railway
Sunrise train: Book early because tickets can sell out. The exact departure time is posted at 4:30 PM the day before. Arrive at the station at least 15 minutes early because the line gets long.
Getting there: Bus or Forest Railway from Chiayi
Good to know: The bus ride into Alishan is very mountainous and winding. Everyone in our group got motion sick, so I would come prepared if you’re prone to car sickness.
Getting to Sun Moon Lake: A direct bus runs from Alishan, but seats are limited and should be reserved ahead. We had our hotel arrange a private driver instead, which was much easier.”
Alishan Entrance Fees + What to Do When You Arrive
Arriving in Alishan can feel a little confusing because there are actually two separate tickets to think about: your entrance ticket for Alishan National Forest Recreation Area and, if you’re planning to see sunrise, your ticket for the Zhushan Sunrise Train.
Here’s what I would do as soon as you arrive.
1. Pay the Alishan Entrance Fee
Before entering the main recreation area, you’ll stop at the entrance station. The standard adult entrance fee is NT$300, but if you arrived by public bus or coach, keep your bus ticket. Visitors who arrive by public transportation currently qualify for the discounted NT$150 entrance fee.
If you purchased your park entrance ticket online ahead of time, pull up the QR code on your phone and have it ready to scan at the entrance.
2026 Alishan entrance fees:
- Standard adult admission: NT$300
- Admission with proof of arrival by public bus/coach: NT$150
- Small car parking: NT$100
One thing to keep in mind: if you’re arriving by bus, I would just purchase your entrance ticket when you arrive so you can take advantage of the NT$150 public transportation rate.
2. Take Care of Your Sunrise Train Ticket
If you’re planning to watch sunrise at Zhushan or Xiaoliyuan and haven’t reserved the sunrise train yet, make this a priority when you arrive.
The Zhushan Sunrise Train currently costs NT$150 each way, and tickets can sell out.
The easiest option is to reserve your ticket ahead of time through the official Alishan Forest Railway booking system. Online reservations open up to 15 days before your travel date and close at 12:00 PM the day before your ride.
👉 Book the Zhushan Sunrise Train online
If you didn’t book online before arriving, you can purchase a ticket for the next morning’s sunrise train at Alishan Station from 12:30 PM–4:30 PM. I wouldn’t wait until late afternoon if you can avoid it, especially on weekends or holidays.
Also, don’t confuse your park QR code with your train ticket. Make sure you collect the required physical ticket for the sunrise train. If you reserved online, you can pick up your ticket through the Forest Railway ticketing system before boarding.
The exact departure time changes throughout the year because the train is scheduled around sunrise. The following morning’s train time is announced at 4:30 PM the day before on the Forest Railway website and is also posted at Alishan Station, the recreation-area entrance and the Visitor Center.
In the morning make sure to arrive 15-20 minute BEFORE the posted time, because the lines can get long! Plus – there’s no backup option if you miss your train.
3. Drop Your Bags at Your Hotel
Once your entrance and sunrise tickets are sorted, head to your hotel and drop off your luggage. Even if you’re arriving before check-in, ask if they can hold your bags while you explore.
We stayed at Alishan Gou Hotel, which made a really convenient base inside the recreation area. Once our bags were taken care of, we could head straight out onto the trails instead of wasting part of our limited time in Alishan dealing with logistics.
From here, you’re ready to actually explore. If you arrive around midday or early afternoon, I would spend the rest of the day around Sister Ponds, Shouzhen Temple and the Giant Tree trails, then grab dinner and get to bed relatively early before your very early sunrise wake-up.
Best Things to Do in Alishan
Watch The Sunrise In Alisha
Watching sunrise is probably the most famous thing to do in Alishan, and despite the ridiculously early wake-up call, I think it’s something you should do at least once.
The classic experience is taking the Zhushan Line sunrise train into the mountains and watching the sun come up over the surrounding peaks at Zhushan Sunrise Observation Deck. The train ride itself adds to the experience, especially when you’re climbing through the dark forest before dawn.
The sunrise deck was crowded when we visited. Everyone is waking up at roughly the same time, taking the same handful of trains and heading toward the same viewing area.
There are a handful of shops here where you can grab something to drink. But make sure you bring cash!
If taking photos or having an unobstructed view matters to you, don’t take forever getting off the train and wandering around. Head toward the viewing area and find your spot!
Alsoooo – remember that this is mountain weather. You can do everything right and still wake up to clouds. Alishan is famous for mist and rapidly changing conditions, so I wouldn’t let one cloudy sunrise ruin the experience.
Walk Through Sister Ponds
If you’re looking for the classic Alishan forest scenery without committing to a strenuous hike, start around Zhaoping and Sister Ponds.
From Zhaoping Station, it’s about 690 meters to Sister Ponds, and the short boardwalk around the ponds winds through red cypress forest. The ponds themselves are relatively small, so it’s not a destination that takes hours to explore. They’re better treated as one stop along a longer walk through the forest.
This was one of my favorite parts of our time here. The trails weren’t particularly crowded when we visited, and it was incredibly relaxing walking under the trees after experiencing the much busier areas around the stations and viewpoints.
Walk the Giant Tree Trails
The Giant Tree Trails are what really made Alishan memorable for me.
There are dozens of enormous old Taiwan red cypress trees in this area, connected by wooden walkways and forest paths. The official Giant Trees Trail is around 1.1 kilometers and passes through some of Alishan’s most impressive surviving ancient forest.
You can connect the Sister Ponds and the Giant Tree area. We started around Sister Ponds and continued through the forest toward Shouzhen Temple before joining the Giant Tree Trail. From there, the path winds past some of Alishan’s oldest cypress trees and eventually toward Shenmu Station. It was an easy route to follow and one of my favorite parts of Alishan because it felt much quieter than the sunrise area.
There is one temporary change to know about if you’re visiting soon. Giant Tree Plank Trail No. 1 is partially closed through May 31, 2027 for reconstruction between the Xianglin Sacred Tree area and Shenmu Station. You can still explore the giant trees using Giant Tree Plank Trail No. 2 and the detour below Ciyun Temple.
Don’t let that closure make you skip this part of Alishan. There is still plenty of the forest accessible!
Ride the Alishan Forest Railway
The little red trains running through the forest are part of the Alishan experience, even if you aren’t particularly interested in trains.
There are several lines within the recreation area. The Zhushan Line is used for sunrise, while the Zhaoping Line and Shenmu Line connect different parts of the forest recreation area. The regular Zhaoping and Shenmu trains operate throughout the day and can be useful if you want to walk in one direction and take the train back instead of retracing the entire route.
You definitely don’t need to ride every line. I would use the railway as part of exploring Alishan rather than making your whole day revolve around train rides.
The historic main line from Chiayi to Alishan is also fully operational again. As of 2026, one daily through-train currently leaves Chiayi at 10:00 AM and reaches Alishan at 2:56 PM, including a long stop at Fenqihu.
Other Alishan Trails If You Have More Time
If you have two nights in Alishan or simply want more hiking, there are several trails beyond the main Sister Ponds and Giant Tree route. I wouldn’t try to cram these into a one-night visit just to say you did them. The main forest route plus sunrise already gives you a very complete Alishan experience, but I’d personally love to go back and hike these ones:
The Shuishan Forest Bathing Trail follows an old railway route toward the Shuishan Giant Tree and is one of the easier additions. It’s an easier trail, about 2.36 kilometers long.
For something more substantial, Tashan Trail climbs toward panoramic mountain views and is approximately 3.5 kilometers according to the park map.
How Long Do You Need in Alishan?
You could easily spend a few days exploring Alishan. For most first-time visitors on long Taiwan trips, one night in Alishan works well.
That’s essentially what we did, and I didn’t feel like we missed the heart of Alishan. If you want to add longer hikes such as Tashan or Shuishan, photograph multiple sunsets and sunrises, or simply explore at a slower pace, stay 2-3 nights.
Alishan isn’t really conducive for a day trip, mostly because the route to get here takes a lot of effort and time. Plus, sunrise is one of the biggest reasons to visit Alishan, and staying overnight makes the entire experience much easier.
Where to Stay in Alishan
You can stay either near the Zhaoping Station or the Alishan Station.
Zhaoping Station
You’re paying for location as much as the room itself, but I think that matters here. You can walk to trails, you’re close to the railway and you don’t have to deal with driving or taking another bus up the mountain before sunrise.
We stayed at Alishan Gou Hotel near Zhaoping Station, and I thought it was a really nice location for exploring the park. We could get onto the forest trails easily, and being right near Zhaoping worked particularly well for the way we explored Sister Ponds and the Giant Tree area.
Alishan Gou Hotel is a litte outside of the main restaurant and shopping area near Alishan Station, but that also made it a little quieter.
That being said, everything is still easily assessable. Expect about a 15–20 minute walk for most restaurants and shops.
I actually liked the tradeoff because the hotel is much closer to the forest trails – we could walk to Sister Ponds in just a few minutes and start exploring almost immediately.
👉 Check current prices for Alishan Gou Hotel
Alishan Station
There are also several hotels clustered closer to Alishan Station and the main visitor area. That location is convenient for restaurants, buses and the main railway station, so it may actually be better if transportation convenience matters more to you than being immediately beside the forest trails.
If you’re staying here I recommend Dafong Hotel.
👉 Check current prices for Dafong Hotel in Alishan
Where to Eat in Alishan
I wouldn’t come to Alishan expecting a huge restaurant scene. Most of the convenient dining is concentrated in two areas: around Alishan Station and the main shopping area, and around Xianglin Service Area near Shouzhen Temple.
If you’re staying near the main visitor area, dinner is easy because you’ll have several places within walking distance.
If you’re staying near Zhaoping like we did, plan around the fact that you’re closer to the trails but farther from most restaurants. We personally walked over to Alishan Station area and ate hot pot at a local restaurant.
I’d also eat dinner relatively early. Dinner lines were unexpectedly long because there aren’t many options in the area. Alishan is not a late-night destination, and you’ll probably be going to bed embarrassingly early anyway once you realize what time you need to wake up for sunrise.
How to Get to Alishan
For most travelers, Chiayi is the gateway to Alishan. You can easily get there from Taipei by high-speed train. It takes roughly 1.5 hours.
By Bus From Chiayi
This is the easiest option for most visitors. Direct buses travel to Alishan from both Chiayi TRA Station in the city and Chiayi High Speed Rail Station outside the city. The HSR Alishan Route currently costs NT$283 one way.
👉 Take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle
This is how we traveled to Alishan, and I have one warning: the final portion of the drive is extremely winding.
Everyone in our group ended up feeling carsick. If you’re prone to motion sickness, come prepared, sit toward the front if possible and avoid spending the drive staring at your phone. I don’t normally get dramatically carsick, and even I remember that road.
By Alishan Forest Railway from Chiayi
The more scenic option is the historic Alishan Forest Railway from Chiayi.
The full railway to Alishan reopened in 2024 after a longgggg (15 year!) closure and is operating in 2026.
It’s slower than taking the bus, but the train itself is part of the experience. If riding the historic railway is high on your Taiwan bucket list, this is the route I would consider.
Tickets should be reserved through the official Forest Railway booking system rather than showing up and assuming you’ll get a seat.
👉 Book the Alishan Forest Railway
Drive to Alishan
You can also rent a car and drive up Highway 18.
A car is particularly useful if you want to explore Xiding, Shizhuo, Fenqihu and some of the tea-growing areas around Alishan rather than only visiting the national forest recreation area. Honestly, having your own car would make the navigation between spots sooo much easier. I personally book my rentals through Discover Cars.
Just remember what I said about the bus ride: the road is mountainous and winding. If no one in your group is comfortable with mountain driving, I wouldn’t rent a car simply because it looks easier on Google Maps.
Hire a Private Driver
If you have several people traveling together, a lot of luggage or someone who struggles badly with motion sickness, a private transfer is the easiest option.
We ended up using a private driver later to travel from Alishan to Sun Moon Lake, and having our hotel arrange everything was incredibly simple.
Getting Around Alishan
Once you’re inside the recreation area, you don’t need a car to see the main attractions.
Walking is really part of the experience here. Zhaoping, Sister Ponds, the Giant Tree area, temples and forest trails are connected well enough that you can spend hours exploring on foot.
Plus, the Forest Railway’s Zhaoping and Shenmu branch lines can shorten some routes, and electric shuttle buses also operate within the recreation area.
Personally, I wouldn’t over-plan this part. Wear comfortable shoes, start walking and use the trains or shuttle when they make sense.
How to Get From Alishan to Sun Moon Lake
Sun Moon Lake is actually fairly close to Alishan. They’re both reallllly popular outdoorsy trips in central Tawian, so naturally they pair together well. If you’re planning to visit Sun Moon Lake, don’t miss my Sun Moon Lake Guide as well.
This is one of the transportation connections I would plan before arriving in Taiwan.
The direct Yuanlin Bus 6739 connects Alishan with Sun Moon Lake, but there are very few departures and seating is limited.
As of 2026, there are currently two departures per day from Alishan: on weekdays they are scheduled for 1:00 PM and 2:30 PM, while weekend departures are currently 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM. The journey takes roughly 2¾ hours. Because mountain transportation schedules can change, always reconfirm shortly before your trip.
Even more importantly, reserve your seat ahead of time. Yuanlin Bus now has an online reservation system for Route 6739, and the current fare is NT$292.
👉 Reserve the Alishan to Sun Moon Lake bus with Yuanlin Bus
Alishan Guide: Practical Tips for Visiting
Alishan is colder than much of Taiwan, particularly first thing in the morning, so bring layers even if you’ve spent the rest of your trip sweating. The recreation area sits above 2,000 meters, and standing outside waiting for sunrise feels very different from walking around Taipei in the afternoon.
I would also bring rain protection and avoid becoming too emotionally attached to the weather forecast. Clouds can move through incredibly quickly. We learned that firsthand on Tea Mist Trail when the mountain views basically disappeared in front of us. Be sure to check current trail closures before you arrive too. Alishan’s mountain environment means trails occasionally close for construction, storms or damage.
Comfortable walking shoes are more important than hiking boots for most first-time visitors. The main Sister Ponds and Giant Tree areas are developed trails and boardwalks, but you’ll still do a lot of walking.
I didn’t find the macaques to be aggressive, but still be sure to keep food away from them. It would be a good idea to carry some snacks for the early sunrise morning too.
And if you’re taking the bus up the mountain, I will repeat this one more time because everyone in our group learned the hard way: prepare for motion sickness.
Is Alishan Worth Visiting?
Alishan is one of those places where the atmosphere ended up mattering more to me than checking attractions off a list. Walking beneath giant cypress trees with mist hanging in the forest, passing little railway tracks and ponds, and then waking up before dawn to watch the sun come over the mountains felt genuinely special.
You don’t need three days or an encyclopedic understanding of the railway system to appreciate it. We had one night, walked the main forest route, watched sunrise the following morning and then continued on to Sun Moon Lake – and I still felt like we experienced the Alishan I had hoped to see.
Would I go back? Definitely. Next time, I’d stay longer, add one of the longer forest hikes and give myself more time to enjoy the mountains without thinking about where we needed to go next.
But for a first visit to Taiwan, one night in Alishan is absolutely worth making room for.
Related Guides: Explore All Taiwan Guides , Visit Sun Moon Lake
Going to Taipei? Check out – Ultimate Taipei Guide, Where To Stay in Taipei, 24 hours In Taipei, Taipei 4 day Itinerary, Jiufen Day Trip
Heading south? Don’t miss: Where To Stay In Tainan, How To Visit Jingzijiao Salt Fields
Hi, I’m Amber —
A Michigan native now living in Washington with a deep love for travel and the outdoors. What started with church mission trips and years of traveling across the U.S. as a nurse has grown into a passion for exploring destinations across Asia and America through hiking, scenic landscapes, local food, wildlife encounters, and underwater adventures. Sometimes I’m joined by my goldendoodle, Millie, but I’m always traveling with my camera. My goal is to help you feel inspired and confident that travel is possible — no matter where you’re starting from.
