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The first time I went to Japan, I honestly didn’t know if I’d ever make it back.
Three weeks already felt like a once-in-a-lifetime trip, so I stuck to the classic Golden Route. I’d heard people recommend alternative itineraries, but skip Kyoto? There was no way.
Then – I fell in love with Japan.
About a year later, I changed my travel plans and booked a flight on a whim. This time, on my second trip to Japan, I traveled through the Japanese Alps – and WHEW, was it a great trip.
Standing on a bridge in Kamikochi, watching the mountains reflect perfectly in the crystal-clear Azusa River, I finally understood what it meant to experience Japan fully. It felt completely different from Tokyo and Kyoto. Fewer crowds. Bigger landscapes. Tiny mountain towns, steaming outdoor onsens, centuries-old post roads, and hiking trails.
If you’ve already experienced Japan’s biggest cities – if this is your second trip to Japan, or you’re simply the kind of traveler who’d choose mountains over shopping streets – this is the route I’d recommend in a heartbeat!
The Quick Version
Overlooking Shirakawa-go
The Japanese Alps are a series of mountain ranges running through central Honshu. A classic 8-day route takes you from Tokyo to Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, Takayama, Hirayu Onsen, Kamikochi, Matsumoto, the Nakasendo Trail, and back to Tokyo.
It’s one of my favorite routes in Japan because it perfectly balances culture, incredible scenery, relaxing hot springs, amazing food, and some of the country’s best hiking – without feeling nearly as crowded as the Golden Route. [Grab the free printable day-by-day at the bottom of this post.]
What (and where) are the Japanese Alps?
“The Japanese Alps” refers to three mountain ranges – the Hida, Kiso, and Akaishi Mountains – that stretch across central Honshu, Japan’s largest island. A British missionary coined the nickname in the late 1800s after the peaks reminded him of the European Alps.
While the Japanese Alps are popular vacation areas for domestic tourists, international tourists have yet to discover them in the same way they have uncovered Kyoto or Osaka.
The 8-day Japanese Alps route at a glance
Here’s the shape of the trip before we walk through it. Eight days is a relaxed loop from Tokyo; you could trim to five or six by sticking to the Kanazawa–Takayama–Kamikochi core.
- Day 1 — Tokyo: arrive and settle in
- Day 2 — Kanazawa: gardens, a geisha district, gold-leaf everything
- Day 3 — Shirakawa-go & Takayama: thatched farmhouses, then an Edo-era old town
- Day 4 — Takayama & Hirayu Onsen: morning market, then a soak in the mountains
- Day 5 — Kamikochi: an alpine valley you can walk in sneakers
- Day 6 — Matsumoto: a black castle and a miso tasting you won’t forget
- Day 7 — The Nakasendo: walk an old highway between two post towns
- Day 8 — Home: back to Tokyo for your flight
Day 1: Arrive in Tokyo
Don’t try to squeeze too much into your first day. Between customs, the train into the city, and jet lag, this is the perfect opportunity to simply enjoy Tokyo.
I recommend staying somewhere with easy train access like Ueno, Tokyo Station, or Asakusa since you’ll be catching the shinkansen the following morning.
Stretch your legs, wander a nearby neighborhood, grab your first bowl of ramen, and resist the temptation to overplan. You’ll have plenty of time to explore Tokyo at the end of your trip – or on another visit.
If this is your first trip to Japan, I’d actually recommend spending a few extra days in Tokyo before starting the Alps route.
👉 Check out this full Tokyo Guide
Where to stay: I loved my stay at APA Hotel Asakusa Tawaramachi Ekimae. It’s a short walk from the station and downtown, in a quiet area. Plus, the onsen has an indoor and outdoor section.
Day 2: Tokyo → Kanazawa
Higashi Chaya Geisha District in Kanazawa
An early shinkansen ride takes you across the country to Kanazawa in about 2½ hours.
Kanazawa is one of those cities that I actually want a second chance with.
I visited during Golden Week, and while I’m still glad I went, I don’t think I experienced Kanazawa at its best.
The city was incredibly busy with local tourists – geisha weren’t performing, and restaurants and tours were booked up. I ended up booking the trip fairly last-minute, so I missed several experiences I had hoped to have.
Even so, I could absolutely see why people love it.
Kenroku-en Garden is one of Japan’s three great landscape gardens, the preserved geisha districts are beautiful to wander through, and the seafood is outstanding. It has many of the things I love about Kyoto, but with a much calmer atmosphere when it’s not packed during the holidays.
I’d happily return outside of Golden Week because I have a feeling my opinion would be completely different.
Where to Stay: APA Hotel Kanazawa-Chuo is very central and was a great spot to stay!
Day 3: Shirakawa-go & Takayama
Walk through these unique farmhouses in Shirakawa-go
Shirakawa-go is probably the most unique spot I’ve been to in Japan. Nothing else has looked quite like it.
Standing at the viewpoint overlooking the village, peering at the steep thatched-roof farmhouses tucked into the valley, honestly felt like looking into a storybook.
From there, continue to Takayama.
Where to stay: I found Hida Takayama Washington Hotel Plaza perfect for a 1-night stay. It is directly across from the train station and walkable to all the downtown attractions.
Takayama took me by surprise. It’s ended up being my favorite mountain town on this Japanese Alps journey.
There are definitely similarities between Takayama and Kanazawa. Both have beautifully preserved historic districts, incredible food, and a traditional atmosphere. But something about Takayama just clicked with me.
The town is incredibly walkable; the streets feel lively without being overwhelming, and I found myself wandering without much of a plan. You’ll likely stumble upon sake breweries, tiny local shops, and restaurants serving some of the best Hida beef you’ll eat in Japan.
If I ever return to the Japanese Alps, Takayama is where I’d spend extra time.
Day 4: Takayama → Hirayu Onsen
I’ll admit it – I almost skipped Hirayu Onsen.
While planning this trip, I kept finding conflicting information online about transportation, and I wasn’t convinced the extra logistics would be worth it.
I’m so glad I ignored that feeling.
Getting there turned out to be incredibly easy, and staying two nights in Hirayu Onsen became one of my favorite decisions of the trip.
After several days of moving between cities, slowing down in a quiet mountain onsen town was exactly what I needed. I loved ending the day soaking in the outdoor baths surrounded by fresh mountain air.
Even better, Hirayu is only about ten minutes from Kamikochi by bus, making it the perfect base instead of trying to squeeze everything into one rushed day.
Where to stay: I would choose Hirayukan-Kyoritsu Resort over and over and over again. It was lovely, and I highly recommend you stay here. [Just trust me on how beautiful the onsens are – there are no photos inside the baths, obviously.]
👉 Read more on why I love this ryokan!
Day 5: Kamikōchi
Kappabashi Bridge at Kamikōchi
If mountains are your happy place, you’ll probably love Kamikōchi as much as I did.
This was my favorite day for scenery!
The river is unbelievably clear, the surrounding peaks seem to tower over every viewpoint, and despite Kamikochi’s popularity, it still feels peaceful once you get beyond Kappabashi Bridge.
I walked nearly the entire length of the valley, taking my time instead of rushing between viewpoints, and never got tired of the scenery.
As someone who genuinely loves being outdoors, I found this day to be a peaceful reminder of why I travel in the first place.
Where to stay: Continue your stay at Hirayukan-Kyoritsu Resort
Day 6: Matsumoto
The famous Matsumoto Castle
Matsumoto was a natural stop before heading toward the Nakasendo Trail.
Of course, the famous Matsumoto Castle is worth seeing, but what surprised me most was how much I enjoyed visiting a traditional miso brewery!
Learning how miso has been made for generations, tasting different varieties, and yes – even trying miso ice cream – ended up being one of my favorite experiences in town.
Where to stay: I stayed at Dormy Inn Matsumoto. It was central to the station and the downtown sights.
Day 7: Nakasendo Trail
The mountains peeking out through a section in the Nakasendo Trail
The Nakasendo Trail was another major highlight of the trip.
I’ll admit I was a little nervous before setting off. Japan has had several bear attacks in recent years, and hiking alone through the forest wasn’t exactly calming my nerves.
Thankfully, I had nothing to worry about.
There were plenty of other hikers along the trail, and I quickly met a couple who invited me to hike with them for the remainder of the journey. It turned out to be one of those unexpected travel moments that made the day even better.
Walking between Magome and Tsumago felt really special. It was great to be out in nature, but also a bit mind-blowing that this pathway had been traveled on since the Edo period. Forest paths, waterfalls, old tea houses, and beautifully preserved villages make this one of the most memorable hikes in Japan.
That said, this part of the itinerary was the most logistically difficult. Also, bears are still a serious consideration when hiking in Japan, and I do wish I’d arrived in Tsumago a little earlier to spend more time wandering its streets. However, even with limited time, I’d still consider this one of the highlights of this epic trip!
You could also consider booking a guided hike from Matsumoto.
Where to stay: Magome Furusato Gakkou is a really neat place. It’s a refurbished school that has gymnasiums and dorm rooms. The only downside is that it’s about a 10-minute walk from town. I would definitely recommend staying there. But if I go back, I would love to stay at Magome Chaya.
Day 8: Return to Tokyo
The journey back to Tokyo will take a few hours – plan for about half a day (either start it this morning or after you complete the trail yesterday).
Or, if your schedule allows, spend another night exploring Japan’s capital before flying out!
Final Thoughts on traveling to the Japanese Alps
One of the things I loved most about this Japanese Alps itinerary is how different it feels from the Golden Route.
Instead of neon lights and packed train stations, you’ll remember quiet mountain mornings, soaking in outdoor onsens, wandering historic streets, eating incredible Hida beef, and hiking through some of the most beautiful scenery Japan has to offer.
The Golden Route made me fall in love with Japan.
The Japanese Alps solidified my love for Japan. It showed me there was an entirely different side of the country waiting beyond the major cities.
How to get around on your Japanese Alps Trip
Bus station at Hirayu Onsen
This Japanese Alps itinerary uses a combination of trains and buses, including several shinkansen (high-speed train) routes.
One of the biggest challenges I had while planning this trip was finding clear, reliable information on how to travel between each destination. I had spent three weeks traveling around Japan the year before, so I already knew the country’s public transportation system was excellent. Even so, the logistics for this region weren’t nearly as straightforward to research online.
In the end, it turned out to be much easier than I expected. I planned the major routes, then confirmed the details with staff at train stations and hotels along the way. The train and bus network throughout this region is incredibly efficient. Even the mountain towns are well connected by public transportation, and once I understood the routes, traveling between destinations was simple and stress-free.
When to Visit the Japanese Alps
Autumn (October into early November) is a showstopper – the mountains turn gold and red, and the light is clean and crisp.
Summer (June to August) is lush and green, with everything open and long daylight for hiking.
I personally went in May – right after Kamikochi opened. The weather was perfect, and the crowds were minimal.
Kamikochi is typically closed from November through April. Mountain weather turns fast in any season, and autumn weekends get busy on the popular buses – so you’ll want to book ahead.
Is the Japan Alps route right for you?
This trip is a dream if you’ve already seen the Golden Route – it’s one of the best things to do on a second trip (or third, or fourth, etc.) to Japan. Especially if mountains, hot springs, and small towns light you up more than megacities and neon.
If you want classic, iconic sights on your first trip to Japan, I’d recommend the Golden Route instead.
Logistically, the Japanese Alps are easy to maneuver, but offer less room for error than the classic Golden Route: the buses and trains connect beautifully, but their connections are less frequent, and a couple of the popular ones sell out. That’s genuinely the hardest part of this trip – and the one thing worth getting right before you go.
Before you book your bucket list Japanese Alps trip:
Ninety percent of planning a smooth itinerary through the Japanese Alps is booking the right things ahead of time – the shinkansen to Kanazawa, the onsen ryokan, and your spot in Magome, for example. Get that right, and the whole route unspools like clockwork. Get it wrong, and you’re rearranging days on the fly.
So I made you the shortcut.
Want this route as a printable, day-by-day skeleton you can take with you? I put together a free Japanese Alps Itinerary – the whole loop condensed onto a few pages you can save to your phone. Drop your email, and I’ll send it straight over.
And as someone who is insanely busy myself – if you’d rather skip the planning entirely, I already did all the research for this trip!
My complete Japan Alps Route Guide does the whole thing for you – hour-by-hour days, exactly where to stay, the book-ahead timeline, a budget, and a pre-pinned map. [coming soon]
Want to visit Japan during cherry blossom season? Don’t miss out on this amazing 10-day Cherry Blossom Itinerary!
Hi, I’m Amber —
A Michigan native now living in Washington with a deep love for travel and the outdoors. What started with church mission trips and years of traveling across the U.S. as a nurse has grown into a passion for exploring destinations across Asia and America through hiking, scenic landscapes, local food, wildlife encounters, and underwater adventures. Sometimes I’m joined by my goldendoodle, Millie, but I’m always traveling with my camera. My goal is to help you feel inspired and confident that travel is possible — no matter where you’re starting from.
