Hakone, Japan Travel Guide: A Relaxing Escape with Onsen, Hikes, and Mount Fuji Views

ByAmber Hours

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If you’re planning a trip to Japan and craving a peaceful escape from Tokyo, Hakone is a must-visit destination. With its blend of traditional ryokans, soothing onsen, scenic hiking, and views of Mount Fuji, this charming town offers a refreshing change of pace from the city hustle.

In this Hakone travel guide, I’ll walk you through our 2-day itinerary, tips for maximizing your time, and how to enjoy the full Hakone experience – whether you’re on a luxury splurge or a more budget-friendly trip.

Why You Should Stay Overnight in Hakone

While you can do Hakone as a day trip, I highly recommend spending at least one night. The charm of Hakone truly comes alive when you stay in a traditional ryokan (Japanese inn), many of which offer private onsen baths and multi-course kaiseki meals.

To save money, consider choosing either the dinner or breakfast option, as both meals are beautifully elaborate and quite filling. If you’re traveling with someone, splitting the cost can make it more affordable while still enjoying the experience.

We stayed at Hananoyado Fukuya and it was absolutely worth the splurge. It’s close to Lake Ashi and just down the street from a 7-Eleven—which came in handy for a low-key, affordable dinner to balance out our kaiseki breakfast.

Getting Around Hakone

Navigation in Hakone is fairly straightforward thanks to Google Maps, but keep in mind:

  • Some buses run late—a rare occurrence in Japan— but seemed more prevalent in Hakone.
  • Winding mountain roads can make the ride feel long and potentially nauseating for those prone to motion sickness.
  • Plan your route ahead of time and stay near the sights you want to explore most. For us, that meant basing ourselves near Lake Ashi.

⚠️ Restaurants and stores close early, so grab food before heading back for the night.

Day 1: Hiking the Old Tokaido Road & Teahouse Experience

We arrived to overcast skies, so we saved the ropeway and Mount Fuji views for the next day and instead opted for a peaceful hike along the Old Tokaido Road—a preserved section of the historic Edo-era route.

  • Start at Lake Ashi and head toward the Amazake Chaya teahouse for a mostly downhill walk with a short uphill start.
  • The trail is scenic and relaxing, but watch your step—the moss-covered stones can be slippery, especially in wet weather.

Amazake Chaya Teahouse

After about 35 minutes, you’ll reach the Amazake Chaya, a charming and rustic teahouse. You can sit inside by the fire (with a smoky, nostalgic scent) or enjoy the outdoor seating if the weather’s nice. Driving here is an option if you’re not interested in hiking.

What we tried:

  • Amazake – a warm, sweet fermented rice drink that reminded me of rice pudding. Highly recommend!
  • Black sesame mochi – rich, earthy, and chewy. So good.
  • Bonus: They also serve free hot tea, which was perfect after the hike.
Walking toward Amazake Chaya
Approaching Hatajuku
The Old Tokaido Road
Beautiful cherry blossom in Hatajuku
Black sesame mochi at Amazake Chaya
Shrine just off the trail

Woodworking Village & Craft Shops

We continued on toward Hatajuku. A small village known for its traditional wood working called Yosegi Zaiku marquetry. This intricate craft involves creating geometric patterns by combining different types of wood without dyes or stains. From the teahouse, it’s about a 45-minute walk that includes a stretch alongside the road (but there’s a sidewalk). Unfortunately, most shops were closed when we arrived, but we did find one open with beautiful handmade crafts and live woodworking demos. If you plan to stop here, it’s best you look at workshops and store hours in advance.

⚠️ Some of the same crafts appear in the souvenir shops at Yamamoto and Lake Ashi, so shop where it feels special to you!

Evening Tips in Hakone

  • Check the bus schedule early. Some routes stop running sooner than expected.
  • Grab dinner before heading back to your accommodation. Many restaurants close early, especially in quieter areas.
  • We kept it simple with 7-Eleven snacks (surprisingly delicious and budget-friendly).

Day 2: Mount Fuji Views, Hakone Shrine & Ropeway

I woke up early the next morning and was rewarded with a magical sunrise view of Mount Fuji—completely clear and crowd-free.

Hakone Shrine at Sunrise

We headed to the famous Hakone Shrine torii gate around 6:30 AM. There were just a few people around, so we got to take photos and enjoy the serene atmosphere without the usual lines.

After we enjoyed our private onsen and ate a traditional kaiseki breakfast. we walked over to Onshi-Hakone Park and Hakone Checkpoint. The Checkpoint was interesting to tour and you can take the stairs up a hill to a scenic overlook. I noted a painter in the park next to the overlook. It looked like a peaceful spot to enjoy nature.

Hakone Shrine
Sunrise view of Mount Fuji

Ropeway & Owakudani Volcanic Vents

We boarded the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise and connected to the Hakone Ropeway, which takes you to Owakudani, a volcanic valley known for its steaming vents.

From boarding to arriving at the top, the journey took about 1.5 hours – there were plenty of crowds.

Honest opinion? The views were decent, but the steam vents felt underwhelming compared to other geothermal spots like Iceland. You can’t walk among the vents—just look from a distance. I wouldn’t go out of your way to do this.

Final Thoughts: Is Hakone Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. Hakone is a special mix of old-world Japan, natural beauty, and quiet retreat. If you:

  • Love hot springs
  • Want a peaceful place to unwind
  • Enjoy hiking, historical routes, and cultural experiences
  • Hope to see Mount Fuji without the crowds…

…then Hakone should definitely be on your Japan itinerary.

Where to Stay in Hakone

Hakone is made up of several small towns connected by bus, train, and ropeway, each with its own charm. Choosing the right area to stay in can help you cut down on commute time and make the most of your trip. The two main towns on the Hakone Loop are Gora and Hakone-Yumoto.

Here are some of the most popular areas to stay, plus my personal recommendation:

Crusing Lake Ashi

Lake Ashi / Moto-Hakone

Best for: Scenic views, quiet atmosphere, access to shrines and sightseeing cruise
This is where we stayed, and I absolutely loved it. It’s a bit quieter and more peaceful than other areas, with iconic views of Mount Fuji on clear days, and it’s close to Hakone Shrine and Onshi-Hakone Park. It’s also a great base for the Old Tokaido Road hike.

  • Top pick: Hananoyado Fukuya
    A luxurious ryokan with private onsen, stunning decor, and the most peaceful vibes. The kaiseki breakfast was phenomenal, and it’s located just minutes from Lake Ashi. My only regret is not getting the kaiseki dinner as well!

Gora

Best for: Access to the ropeway, museums, onsens, mid-range options
Gora is a popular area for tourists due to its central location on the Hakone Loop. It’s home to the Hakone Open-Air Museum, lots of great ryokan and hotels, and access to the Hakone Tozan Railway and ropeway.

  • Recommended stay: Emblem Flow Hakone
    A stylish, budget-friendly hotel/hostel hybrid with a social vibe and good amenities. Great if you’re traveling solo or with friends.

Hakone-Yumoto

Best for: Easy train access, shopping, dining, first-time visitors
This is the gateway to Hakone and where most travelers arrive via the Odakyu line from Tokyo. It has the most restaurants, shops, and ryokans within walking distance. It’s also the most convenient if you’re just doing a quick overnight stay.

  • Try: Yumoto Fujiya Hotel
    A comfortable and well-known hotel that’s walkable from the station with great public bath options.

Tonosawa

Best for: Tranquil nature vibes, traditional ryokans, onsen stays
Just one stop away from Hakone-Yumoto, this area is tucked into the forest and full of picturesque bridges, hot spring inns, and streams. Great for a quiet retreat without being too far from the action.

  • Check out: Fukuzumiro Ryokan
    A historic, rustic ryokan with a very traditional feel—think tatami mats, river views, and wood-paneled rooms.

Sengokuhara

Best for: Families, nature lovers, pampas grass fields, museums
Between Gora and Lake Ashi. Great if you want open space, art museums (like the Pola Museum), or are visiting in the fall to see the famous pampas grass fields.

Pro Tip: Choose your accommodation based on which sites you care about most. Hakone is beautiful—but the roads are winding and travel time can add up. Staying near your top attraction (like Lake Ashi, in our case) will save time and make your trip feel more relaxed.

🗺️ Map of Hakone: Where to Stay and What to Do

Getting Around Hakone: Hakone Free Pass & Transportation Tips

One of the best ways to explore Hakone seamlessly is by using the Hakone Free Pass. It’s a budget-friendly and stress-free way to get around the entire region—especially if you’re planning to hit multiple attractions in a short amount of time.

What Is the Hakone Free Pass?

The Hakone Free Pass, offered by Odakyu Railways, is an all-inclusive transportation pass that gives you unlimited rides on:

  • Hakone Tozan Train
  • Hakone Cable Car
  • Hakone Ropeway
  • Hakone Sightseeing Cruise (Lake Ashi pirate ship!)
  • Hakone Tozan Bus
  • Odakyu Highway Bus
  • Some local buses and trains in the area

You can also use it for discounts on attractions, hot springs, and museums in the region.

How Much Does It Cost?

As of 2025, the price of the 2-day pass is about $41 USD

A 3-day pass is also available for $44 USD

Children’s passes are cheaper and are under $10 USD

Where to Buy the Hakone Free Pass

You can purchase the pass online with Klook.
I highly recommend using Klook as you can download their app and have it readily available to scan on all modes of transportation.

Places to buy in person:

  • Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku Station
  • Odawara Station

Is the Hakone Free Pass Worth It?

Yes, if you plan to explore multiple parts of Hakone. It covers nearly all the transportation you’ll need—train, ropeway, buses, and even the Lake Ashi boat cruise. We used it for everything from the sightseeing boat to the ropeway to buses connecting towns. It saved us both money and the hassle of buying individual tickets.

Just make sure to check the time tables ahead of time, especially for buses and ropeways—they can stop running earlier than expected.

Hi, I’m Amber —

A Michigan native now living in Washington with a deep love for travel and the outdoors. What started with church mission trips and traveling across the U.S. as a nurse has grown into a passion for exploring the world through hiking, food, culture, and the beauty of God’s creation. Sometimes I’m joined by my goldendoodle, Millie, but I’m always traveling with my camera. My goal is to help you feel inspired and confident that travel is possible — no matter where you’re starting from.

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